Sacred Chaos, Catania

A different kind of journey in Sicily, Italy.

Real life is in black and white
Catania is a relatively large city on the coast of Sicily, a few dozen kilometers from Mount Etna, which beautifully shapes the city’s skyline when the weather allows it.
— Catania —

View from Via Etnea.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/9

The city — and the island itself — is known for its rich culture, traditions, and, of course, its food. I visited Sicily during the first week of February 2026, just in time to catch one of the world’s largest religious celebrations, which takes place in Catania.

Candelore carriers.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/2.8

The main celebration (the procession) takes place on the 5th and 6th of February, with the former being an official holiday. However, many related events occur throughout the entire week, giving the city a festive atmosphere.
On the 4th of February, I came across a small crowd in one of the many alleyways near Via Etnea, the city’s main street. They were playing music and carrying a totem-like structure called “Candelora.” The name is related to the word “candle” — candela in Italian — and symbolizes the light of Christ.

Band playing at an alleyway.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/1.2

Candelora.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/4

People carrying a Candelora.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/2.8

These decorated wooden structures (Candelore) can weigh between 600 and 800 kilograms! It takes between 8 and 12 men to carry each one. On the 4th and 5th of February, the Candelore fill the streets of the historic center, carried along the procession route one stretch at a time, uphill and downhill, all coordinated by the whistles of police officers who ensure everything runs smoothly.
Piazza Stesicoro.
Piazza Stesicoro.
Candelora in front of "Savia" and the Benini Villa.
Candelora in front of "Savia" and the Benini Villa.
Man with traditional attire for carrying the Candelora.
Man with traditional attire for carrying the Candelora.
— Messa dell'Aurora —
The “official” Mass for Saint Agatha begins early on the 4th of February. By 5:30 a.m., the city’s main square was already packed. I was surprised to see so many teenagers and young people, all dressed in white garments, wearing dark felt hats and white gloves, which they used to wave at the saint’s “Fercolo” — the silver cart on which her body is carried during the procession.

Two guys chatting while waiting for the Aurora mass to start.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/1.2

“Cittadini, cittadini, semu tutti devoti tutti?”

Teenagers standing on top of the Basilica's stone fence.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/1.2

A teenager hanging on to a stone fence.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/1.2

Porta Uzeda.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/2

St. Agatha's "Fercolo" next to the fish market.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/2.8

After a long wait in Piazza del Duomo, in front of Saint Agatha’s Cathedral, the “Fercolo” finally emerges. The crowd of believers then proceeds to offer gifts such as flowers and long, amber-colored candles.
The Fercolo then follows its pre-established route, stopping at certain points, such as the fish market, just after leaving the Cathedral. People bring objects to be blessed at the Fercolo, stretching out their hands to the priests, who take the items, gently rub them against the Fercolo, and return them to their eager owners.
— The 5th of February —

Via Etnea the morning of the procession.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/5.6

On the day of the procession, i.e. the 5th of February, Via Etnea and the rest of the route are paved with sawdust in the morning. I later found out that this is done to prevent wax from sticking to the streets, as many believers carry candles and light them along the sidewalks while the "Fercolo" follows its route.

A group of young people heading towards piazza Stesicoro.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/9

Two guys standing at Via Etnea.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/2.8

A man carrying a massive candle at Via Etnea.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/4

Establishment where the candles are made.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/8

Traditional garments hanging on the day after.
Voigtländer NOKTON 35mm F1.2 @f/4

The rope used to pull the Fercolo.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/5.6

A group of friends sitting on top of a market stand while waiting for the fireworks.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/5.6

The procession, which takes place on the 5th of February, begins at around 5 p.m. with a lengthy and spectacular fireworks display in Piazza del Duomo. The “Fercolo” then sets off on its route — this time different from that of the 4th of February — making its way uphill along Via Etnea.
It reaches Piazza Quattro Canti, only 300 meters from Piazza del Duomo, a whopping four hours later. That being said, one can imagine how long the entire procession takes. In fact, the “Fercolo” does not return to Saint Agatha’s Cathedral until around noon the following day. Not before stopping at Piazza Cavour for another spectacular round of fireworks at 6 a.m. — waking up anyone who, by chance, was not already awake or had fallen victim to exhaustion.

St. Agatha's "Fercolo" at Via Etnea
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/5.6

— An unique TOWN—
Street vendors never miss an opportunity. Many stands like the one in the image can be found along the procession route, selling pins and brooches featuring the Saint’s image, as well as candles for those who wish to offer one or two to city's saint patron.

Merchants at the fish market.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/3.2

A couple sitting on top of St. Agatha's basilica concrete fence.
Voigtländer NOKTON 35mm F1.2 @f/2

St. Agatha's basilica garden.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/4

Typical Sicilian "Tarocco".
Voigtländer NOKTON 35mm F1.2 @f/5.6

Kebab shop the morning February 6th.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/2.8

As the procession continues into the night, many pop-up food stalls begin to appear in the city center, especially along the streets branching off Via Etnea. The most common food served is panini with grilled meat.

Barbecue stand the night of February 5th.
Voigtländer NOKTON 23mm F1.2 @f/5.6

"Sicilian breakfast", roasted artichokes and hard boiled eggs.
Voigtländer NOKTON 35mm F1.2 @f/5.6

A dog under arches of the historical center.
Voigtländer NOKTON 35mm F1.2 @f/5.6

St. Agatha's basilica dome.
Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM WR @f/8

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