Rediscovering roots

This weekend getaway started with a five-hour drive from Rome toward the southern part of Italy, into the province of Salerno. We left home around seven in the morning, stopping for breakfast shortly after the first highway toll. The drive at this time of year is very pleasant; before I knew it, we were already parking in the village of Bosco (a district of San Giovanni a Piro) where we would stay overnight.

Strategic stop for a coffee at an "Autogrill".
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Bosco village.
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BOSCO
After taking a couple of missed turns while trying to navigate the tiny, confusing roads of Bosco village, we parked our car at a viewpoint. It felt good to stretch my legs and enjoy the warm sun, the fresh breeze, and the wonderful view before us.
Bosco is known for the Spanish painter José Ortega, who moved here around the 1980s. According to Ortega, the village reminded him of his home in Spain. His former residence features a painted tile at the entrance depicting a painter holding a brush upward, with the word "pintor" written on top.

Detail of our room's door handle.
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Entrance to our lodge.
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My wife's great-grandfather was born in the town of San Giovanni a Piro, a mere 1.5 km away from Bosco. Despite living in Italy for such a long time, we had never visited San Giovanni. Now, with her aunt and uncle visiting us from the USA, it felt like the perfect opportunity to discover this place and, for them, rediscover their roots.
Detail of a small rickshaw parked next to us.
Detail of a small rickshaw parked next to us.
The lodge's entrance door knuckle.
The lodge's entrance door knuckle.
Breakfast table detail. The tile represents a replica of Ortega's "La sete" (SED) paint.
Breakfast table detail. The tile represents a replica of Ortega's "La sete" (SED) paint.
Detail of our room's lamp.
Detail of our room's lamp.
In Bosco, we stayed at Pie’ d’Ulivo (literally translating to "at the foot of the olive tree"). An acquaintance of my wife's aunt, who had met other family members during a trip in 2005, recommended the place to us. We called the owner and arranged everything. Our host, Nicola, is a retired doctor who was incredibly welcoming.

 Millenium-old olive tree trunk detail.
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Piè d'Ulivo accomodations.
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The property had everything you would expect from a traditional Italian countryside home. The decor, the environment, and the atmosphere were all a perfect match.

Piè d'Ulivo accomodations.
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— San Giovanni a Piro —

View of San Giovanni a Piro.
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After checking in, we continued on our way to San Giovanni a Piro. The short but twisty drive was filled with emotion. For my wife's aunt and uncle, the town holds a deeper meaning; they are connected to it by blood, and I imagine it must be a surreal feeling to walk the very same roads their grandfather walked so many years ago. San Giovanni is not part of my story, of course, but I couldn't help but feel just as emotional as them. For me, it was a different kind of journey — I was exploring and witnessing my wife’s distant origins.

View from inside a cafeteria in San Giovanni a Piro.
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A coffee cup.
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We parked in the town square right alongside the main road that crosses through the village. A few steps further, we spotted a café built to resemble a castle, complete with a tall façade and battlements. A handful of elders were chatting by the entrance. As we walked in, they stared at us as if we were creatures from another planet, leaving us to guess that this town doesn't receive visitors very often, let alone foreigners.

San Giovanni a Piro square.
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The owner was closing up shop, but he kindly stayed open a bit longer to serve us. The scent of coffee was delightful, and we couldn't resist a cup. To accompany the espresso, as tradition dictates, we ordered cornetti filled to the brim with jam!
The view from the café's seating area was mesmerizing. Still numb with a strange nostalgia for a place I had only ever pictured in my mind — which had now suddenly materialized before my eyes — I gazed through the arched windows at the lush greenery extending into infinity.
We said goodbye to the owner and set foot into the town’s historical center, navigating through narrow cobblestone streets. Our mission was to find the house where the progenitor great-grandfather had grown up. Armed with nothing more than a photograph and hope, we asked a few locals, who were able to pinpoint the exact address. It was easier done than said! Step by step, we continued through the maze-like alleys, eventually turning onto Via Teodoro Gaza.

Via Teodoro Gaza.
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Street in the center of San Giovanni a Piro.
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Alleyway in the center of San Giovanni a Piro.
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The harsh sun was right above our heads, illuminating the street and its flat-faced houses with shuttered windows and narrow, wrought-iron balconies jutting out from the upper floors. The balconies were decorated with blue-and-white banners for an upcoming Christian holiday, alongside several potted plants and laundry hanging here and there. At the end of the road, we finally reached our destination. A few pictures were taken, followed by a silent moment of reflection. We stayed there for a few minutes before saying a quiet farewell.

Balconies in San Giovanni a Piro.
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Farm tractor in the center of San Giovanni a Piro.
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San Giovanni a Piro and The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Pietrasanta as seen from a viewpoint.
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The blue skies above us were screaming for more adventure. Back in our car, we continued up the winding hill road, and the higher we climbed, the more the landscape shed its modesty, revealing itself entirely. Scattered little towns nestled in the greenery danced with the crystal-clear sea in the background, all in perfect harmony with a brilliant blue sky—composing a canvas worthy of a master painter.

Our Lady of Pietrasanta prayer.
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Bell tower of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Pietrasanta.
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We stopped the car to appreciate the view at a starkly contrasting war monument along the way. There, I took some time to fly my drone and capture a few images before continuing uphill toward our next stop: The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Pietrasanta.

San Giovanni a Piro seen from above.
DJI Mini 3 Pro

View from Ciolandrea.
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Sapri beach.
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Port of Scario.
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The next day, I was awakened by the first rays of light coming through the gaps I had intentionally left in the blinds. Outside, the sun bathed the gardens, tinting them gold. I opened the windows and saw the breakfast hall, precisely where I would be heading in a few moments.

Sapri beach.
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Caffè in Sapri.
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Our short trip was coming to an end, bringing with it a bittersweet feeling. I had barely arrived, yet it felt like there was still so much more to explore. We said goodbye to Nicola and went on our way. My soul was light, and after a meandering drive, we reached the town of Sapri. We were eager to see a bit more of the Cilento coast, but time was against us.

6th century church in the center of Policastro.
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In Sapri, we stopped by the sun-kissed beach for a gelato and coffee before hurrying back to the car and starting our trip back home...

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